Beautiful the first time, perfect the next: The town best visited twice

By Alison Stewart
Updated January 12 2018 - 12:38pm, first published 12:29pm

Long ago, two young travellers heading north from Portugal's Algarve entered a mountainous landscape, green with pine and chestnut trees, threaded with rivers, and discovered a hilltop town on the east bank of the Rio Mondego.

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